Where Volcanoes Meet The Sea
After driving through the night, I find myself surfing the best waves I’ve ever seen with just a few mates and some friendly locals blokes. Turquoise waves riffle down the reef in perfect lines. Rainbow spray flying off the back due to the strong off shores. I sit far outside trying to pick off a bomb while not getting stuck inside. When I finally find a moment to breath in the line up I look around and can’t believe my eyes. Nothing but farm land, mountains and volcanos for as far as the eye can see. No man made structures besides the shacks we had made from drift wood are on the beach.
The North Islands second largest volcano sits directly in front of the lineup and dominates the view from the water. After three hours of surfing in this dream land I caught the wave I was after. It took me a 100 meters from the point and I kicked out right in front of our shack. I looked back up the point, staring into the sun watching black silhouettes dancing against the turquoise waves. I knew the sun would be setting soon and I decided it was time to take some photos to remember the day.
Completely surfed out and starving we started the thirty minute walk back to our vans as the last colors of sunset remained in the sky. It was completely dark by the end and the last electric fence caught my wetsuit and gave me a nice shock. To late to go out to eat, we stop for steaks at the super market. Half asleep we prepare our dinner. No one says much, no one has the energy to talk. All we can do is day dream about the session we just had. The laughs shared, waves caught and beating received from getting swept inside. We smoke a joint and fall drift away. Alarms set for sunrise. Ready to wake up and do it all over again.
The next morning I woke up to a meter maid giving me a $200 dollar ticket for parking my van in the wrong area while camping. And if that isn’t a prefect representation of what traveling around New Zealand in a van is then I don’t know what is. Hell you can even use it as a metaphor for life. You can have the best day of your life and still wake up to a big old f*** you the next morning. Sorry for rambling. I just want to conclude with money isn’t real, love is. Take that trip your thinking about make some memories with some friends and do what you love. You can always make more money but you can’t always find more time.
